Sunday. Hannah was ready to walk off into town and pay a visit to Civilization. Gretchen was game as well. Marg’s back was giving her troubles so she had to bow out. We weren’t sure what we’d find open, but off we went. Surprisingly, a lot was open. It wasn’t at all like the Sabbath on Lewis. But the main shopper in the crowd was Hannah, and she wanted to comparison shop, so we decided to do it tomorrow when she could have a basis for comparison. We got Marg some ointment for her back, and hit Morrisons for a few more groceries. We also did a bit of hanging around the Triangle, smoked cigarettes while lounging on the Market Cross and popped into a little café for lunch. I had to have beans on toast, since I’d never seen that offered in the US. Pretty satisfying food, I could imagine it being a staple. I also had a fruit scone. An American description of that would be a large, dense breakfast biscuit, baked brown with some honey drizzled on top and raisins embedded. That was satisfying as well. While in the area, I was happy to find the tourist information center open so I could ask someone where we might find internet access. Somehow, I had really expected that to be easier to find than all this, but there just isn’t much of it around. The lady there recommended the library and the second-hand bookstore.
After we got back to the cottage, I wasn’t finished walking yet. They make these Ordnance Survey maps here, which are just great. Especially the orange “Explorer Map” series. They’re great. They show the fences, buildings, items of archaeological interest, even the names of the little hills and such. But what’s really great is that they show all the public access walking paths and bridleways and such. So after taking a good look at the map I struck off across country. The track I walked took me to a spot called Bilton Mill, about a mile and a half southeast of the cottage. That’s about halfway to Alnmouth Station where we got off the train yesterday. Sensing that dinner time was due soon, and knowing that I have a habit to diverge from the trail if I see something odd or interesting on either side, I thought that enough. The trail was just a bit rough, but nice. It ran mostly through pasture and on the edges of wheat fields. The river Aln, sprinkled with flower petals, passed lazily by on one side. Not something I’d want to walk in the damp without better gear, with the grass so high and the way so narrow, but enjoyable this evening. It was also very fragrant. Lots of things are in bloom now, including a pink-flowered shrub that dominates the hedges and attracts lots of little bees and flies. And I met some very nice cows. The path went through their hillside pasture for a stretch. On my way back, the cows were clustered at the end of a small footbridge that I needed to cross. Cows are pretty docile, so a little hand waving and stern words made most of them disperse. However, one of them persisted in the path and looked at me thoughtfully until I modulated my voice from stern to nearly impolite. A couple of moments later, when I looked back, I saw this same animal performing the patriarchal office. So I guess his earlier stare might have carried a bit of authority that I hadn’t been keen enough to notice. I’m glad that, all in all, everyone here is so civil.
Sunday, June 3, 2007
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